A Return to the Wild: Rediscovering Yala

Yala National Park, once a place of solitude and connection with nature, doesn’t feel as comfortable as it used to be for me. Sixteen years ago, a simple work outing to Yala changed everything. I remember vividly—the moment I clicked the shutter on my camera and captured Kublai Khan, the legendary great tusker of Yala—it sparked a passion for wildlife that has only grown stronger with time.

Since then, visiting Yala twice a month became a routine, each trip fueling my fascination with the wild. But as the crowds have grown and the atmosphere changed, I’ve found myself seeking out quieter corners—Wilpattu, Yala Block 5—where the essence of the wilderness is still untouched. There, surrounded by the sounds of nature and away from the overwhelming crowds, I’ve been able to truly observe and photograph everything from elusive leopards to vibrant birds, and so much more.

Despite my countless visits, there was one part of Yala I had never experienced—Heenwewa Bungalow. That changed last May when I finally had the chance to stay there. It had been a while since my last trip to Yala, but fortunately, my trusted safari guide, Theekshana Lakshan of Yala Bigcat Safari, was available. Together, we ventured into the less-traveled areas of the park, avoiding the crowds, and it paid off. We captured some breathtaking moments that reminded me why Yala became such a significant part of my life all those years ago.

Fascinating feathers

Feathers are one of nature’s most extraordinary creations, intricately designed for a variety of purposes. Not only do they enable flight for birds, but they also serve as vital tools for insulation, protection, and communication. Composed primarily of keratin, the same protein found in human hair and nails, feathers are lightweight yet incredibly strong.

Each feather is a marvel of engineering. Flight feathers, for example, have a central shaft and a series of barbs that interlock, providing both flexibility and strength. This allows birds to soar gracefully through the sky. Down feathers, on the other hand, are soft and fluffy, trapping air to provide warmth even in the coldest environments.

Beyond their physical functions, feathers are a visual spectacle. They come in an astonishing array of colors and patterns, often used for camouflage, attracting mates, or intimidating rivals. The iridescent shimmer of a peacock’s tail or the vibrant reds and yellows of a tropical parrot are stunning examples of nature’s artistry.

Feathers have also inspired human culture, from ancient symbolism to modern fashion. They represent freedom, beauty, and elegance, making them a timeless symbol across civilizations. From their intricate structure to their diverse roles, feathers truly are one of the natural world’s most fascinating wonders.

A closer encounter with a Crested Serpent Eagle at Kumana National Park, Sri Lanka gave me the opportunity to capture this detailed photo of its breast feathers. The detailed shades and patterns on the feathers are truly fascinating, showcasing the beauty and complexity of nature up close.

Sri Lanka Spurfowl (Galloperdix bicalcarata)

The Sri Lanka Spurfowl (Galloperdix bicalcarata) is a ground-dwelling bird species endemic to Sri Lanka, found primarily in dense forests and woodland areas. It belongs to the pheasant family, Phasianidae. The male spurfowl is distinguished by its dark brown plumage with a speckled pattern, a red facial patch, and prominent spurs on its legs, while females are duller in color with more subtle markings. Known for their shy and elusive nature, these birds are more often heard than seen, making sharp, loud calls, especially at dawn and dusk. They feed on insects, seeds, and small invertebrates, foraging in leaf litter.

Photographing these birds in wildness is very challenging as they live in dense undergrowth with very little light supporting photography. However they are use to come to some home gardens for food near forest patches around wet-zone forests like Sinharaja, Kanneliya, Makandawa, Nilgala, etc. With proper approach we can observe and photograph these birds when they come to home gardens with better lighting conditions. This was taken during my last visit to Nilgala.

Encounter Rana (KLM29) on a territory walk

It was early in the morning, and we were the second safari jeep to enter Kumana National Park. Our wildlife guide, Sasika, and safari driver, Pradeep, decided to turn onto Kiripokuna Road while the other jeep continued on the main road. As we reached the third bund on Kiripokuna Road, both Shashika and Pradeep pointed toward the road where a leopard was crossing toward the bund. We gave it some room, and it returned to the road. It was a mature male leopard, later identified as Rana (KLM29).

Rana (KLM29) sniffing to mark territory

Seeing Rana in his natural habitat, performing these instinctual activities, was an unforgettable experience. His powerful presence and the way he navigated his domain with confidence left us in awe. This encounter, albeit brief, offered a rare and intimate glimpse into the life of one of Kumana’s most elusive and majestic residents.

Rana (KLM29) on the road

Meet Baagu (බාගු – KLM2), the Majestic King of Kumana National Park

Baagu, also known as KLM2, is a dominant male leopard who reigns supreme in Kumana National Park. Known for his extensive territory, Baagu is a frequent sight within his domain. As one of the first recorded male leopards by kumanaLeopards.com, he is quite old but continues to assert his dominance despite his age.

\Recently, we learned that Baagu had a confrontation with Rana (KLM29), a formidable male leopard with overlapping territory. Despite the clash, Baagu appeared in great shape when we encountered him on Diwulpallama Wewa Road on the evening of June 22nd. This was my second time photographing this dominant leopard.

The scars on and around Baagu’s face tell a story of the struggles he has faced throughout his life—struggles that have ultimately shaped him into the powerful and enduring killing machine he is today.

Leopard in Yala Y Junction

It has been a long time since I posted a leopard photo. None of the sightings from the beginning of the year were satisfying, as almost all of them were on the move. Of course, I do not visit Yala, Wilpattu, or any other national park as often as I used to in the good old days. So, I had to dig deep into my old photos to see what I hadn’t posted yet.

To my surprise, there were quite a lot of photos that hadn’t caught my attention before. I picked this one out of many because I really liked the isolated background. We don’t often get such deep backgrounds in Yala National Park. I think this was taken somewhere near Y Junction under extremely dry conditions during July six years ago.

Yellow-fronted Barbet near Sinharaja Rain Forest

Yellow-fronted Barbet endemic to Sri Lanka

The yellow-fronted barbet is a small, endemic species in Sri Lanka, found primarily in the wet lowlands of the country. They typically appear in pairs and can be easily identified by their distinctive yellow foreheads. These birds are commonly seen in small forested areas and well-wooded home gardens, where they often visit bird feeders. Their diet mainly consists of wild berries, but when feeding their chicks, they rely on a diverse array of foods, including worms, insects, and wild berries.

Like other barbet species, yellow-fronted barbets nest in holes created in dead trees or dead tree branches. Their usual nesting period is from February to May, during which they lay 2-3 eggs. Both parents are actively involved in nesting duties, from feeding to cleaning, a process that takes about two months.

I recently encountered a nesting pair last March in a home garden near the Kudawa entrance to the Sinharaja Rainforest. By the time I arrived, the eggs had already hatched, and the parents were busy feeding their chicks. From the vantage point of an outdoor kitchen, the nest and perches were clearly visible. This position provided me with enough cover and shelter from the rain, allowing me to observe without disturbing the birds or getting wet during occasional showers. It is very important to not to disturb nesting birds due to many which could lead them abandoning nest as well as other animals destroying nests. It is always recommended to be hidden while observing nests not only from nesting birds but also from other predatory animals.

One of the parents removing waste from nest

Although the light was less than ideal due to the rainy weather, I noticed that feeding activities were more frequent during breaks in the rain. I was fortunate enough to capture some beautiful photos while enjoying a cup of tea with homemade pure jaggery, just before the sun decided to hide completely for the day. This experience was a delightful blend of nature observation and personal enjoyment, made even more special by the charming behavior of the yellow-fronted barbets.

One of the parents bring food to nest